{"id":15067,"date":"2013-09-26T17:00:00","date_gmt":"2013-09-26T19:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.silutesnaujienos.lt\/lt\/senieji-pamario-krasto-gyventojai-valgydavo-kvapes-devynakes-azegius-zarates\/"},"modified":"2013-09-26T17:00:00","modified_gmt":"2013-09-26T19:00:00","slug":"senieji-pamario-krasto-gyventojai-valgydavo-kvapes-devynakes-azegius-zarates","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.silutesnaujienos.lt\/lt\/senieji-pamario-krasto-gyventojai-valgydavo-kvapes-devynakes-azegius-zarates\/","title":{"rendered":"Senieji Pamario kra\u0161to gyventojai valgydavo kvapes, devynakes, azegius, zarates"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"senieji<\/a>\u201eSr\u0117bk sriub\u0105, \u017euv\u012f dugne rasi\u201c, – sakydavo senieji Pamario kra\u0161to \u017evejai, \u017euvien\u0119 virdav\u0119 valtyje, supamoje Kur\u0161i\u0173 mari\u0173 bang\u0173.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0160ios, dar tikr\u0105ja vadinamos \u017euvien\u0117s receptas labai paprastas: trikojyje u\u017evirintas mari\u0173 vanduo, penkios pirmos pagautos \u017euvys ir b\u016btinai – p\u016bg\u017elys, visam nuovirui suteikdav\u0119s skonio.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Valgydami vyrai prisik\u0105sdavo moter\u0173 \u012f ki\u0161en\u0119 \u012fd\u0117tu \u010desnaku, kuris, tik\u0117ta, tur\u0117davo ir magi\u0161k\u0173 apsaugini\u0173 gali\u0173.<\/p>\n

Senieji salos gyventojai daug dar\u017eovi\u0173 neaugino, pagrindin\u012f j\u0173 maisto racion\u0105 sudar\u0117 patiekalai i\u0161 \u017euv\u0173. Stintikes, devynakes (n\u0117ges), kvapes (v\u0117g\u0117les), gaudytas skirtingu met\u0173 laiku, virdavo piene, kepdavo ant durpi\u0173 briket\u0173 ar \u017earij\u0173, \u0161utindavo duonkep\u0117je krosnyje.<\/p>\n

Apie Rusn\u0117s kulinarin\u012f paveld\u0105 papasakoti bei senoviniais receptais pasidalinti sutiko Rusn\u0117s Salos etnokult\u016bros ir informacijos centro direktor\u0117 Birut\u0117 Servien\u0117.<\/p>\n

Artimiausiu metu rusni\u0161kiai pristatys kra\u0161to kulinarinio paveldo recept\u0173 knyg\u0105 \u201eSenoji Rusn\u0117s virtuv\u0117. \u017duvies patiekalai\u201c, kurioje, kaip prie\u0161kario laikais, bus palikta vietos \u0161eimininki\u0173 u\u017era\u0161ams. V\u0117liau planuojama i\u0161leisti ir knygeles, skirtas kepiniams bei gaiviesiems g\u0117rimams.<\/p>\n

Stintas \u0161utindavo duonkep\u0117je<\/strong>
\"senieji<\/a>
B.Servienei teko kalbinti vietinius senuosius \u017evejus – Ervin\u0105 Pr\u016bs\u0105, \u0160uki\u0173, Goberi\u0173 \u0161eimas, tai visi jie sak\u0117, kad tikr\u0105j\u0105 \u017euvien\u0119 namuose ma\u017eai virdavo, o daugiausia \u0161utinius darydavo.<\/p>\n

Specialiame \u0105so\u010dio formos storasienio indo dugne pripjaustydavo bulvi\u0173, ant vir\u0161aus i\u0161rikiuodavo i\u0161valytas stintas ir visk\u0105 u\u017epyl\u0119 spirgu\u010diais pa\u0161audavo \u012f duonkep\u0119. I\u0161tro\u0161kin\u0119 \u0161auk\u0161tu kabindavo gilyn ir valgydavo u\u017esigerdami r\u016bgpieniu.<\/p>\n

Muziejinink\u0117 pasakojo, kad anuomet stintas valydavo kitaip nei \u0161iais laikais. \u0160iandien dauguma \u0161eimininki\u0173 \u0161i\u0105 \u017euv\u012f skrod\u017eia per apa\u010di\u0105 arba nupjauna galv\u0105 ir i\u0161traukia p\u016bslel\u0119. Pavyzd\u017eiui, \u017evejo \u017emona \u0160arliokien\u0117 i\u0161 \u017dalgiri\u0173 pelkinink\u0173 kaimo stint\u0105 pjaudavo palei \u0161on\u0105 vir\u0161uje, kur baigiasi \u0161onkauliukai.  Pasirodo, skrod\u017eiant tokiu b\u016bdu nei\u0161simeta pati riebiausia dalis – papilv\u0117.<\/p>\n

Dabar daugelis \u012f Rusn\u0119 va\u017eiuoja pirkti r\u016bkyt\u0173 kar\u0161i\u0173, kurie vis\u0173 labai m\u0117gstami. Iki karo m\u016bs\u0173 kra\u0161to \u017emon\u0117ms atrod\u0117, kad \u0161i \u017euvis n\u0117ra \u0161vari, nes gali i\u0161gyventi labai u\u017eter\u0161tame vandenyje. Kar\u0161io r\u016bkymas kar\u0161tuoju b\u016bdu, kaip ir degtin\u0117s pylimas \u012f \u017euvien\u0119, atsirado po karo. Tik anks\u010diau kar\u0161io i\u0161klotin\u0117s niekas negamino. \u017duv\u012f i\u0161skrosdavo, pagardindavo kar\u010diaisiais pipirais, \u010desnakais ir \u012f vid\u0173 \u012fki\u0161davo pagaliukus. R\u016bkyti sukabindavo auk\u0161tyn galva, kad sultys susilaikyt\u0173 pa\u010dioje m\u0117soje.<\/p>\n

V\u0117g\u0117les virdavo piene, d\u017eiovindavo<\/strong><\/p>\n

Pamario kra\u0161to gyventojai \u017euvis vadindavo savitai, pabr\u0117\u017edami kai kuriuos j\u0173 i\u0161or\u0117s ar skonio bruo\u017eus, pvz. p\u016bkis – tai p\u016bg\u017elys, anguris – ungurys, azegis – e\u0161erys, blingis – plakis, brusn\u0117 – kuoja, lukutis – kar\u0161is, zarate – karpis, rauda – kuoja, lasasa – la\u0161i\u0161a.<\/p>\n

Labiausiai m\u0117giamos \u0161i\u0161ioni\u0161ki\u0173 \u017euvys buvo n\u0117g\u0117s (d\u0117l ta\u0161keli\u0173 \u0161onuose devynak\u0117mis vadintos) ir v\u0117g\u0117l\u0117s (d\u0117l specifinio kvapo kvap\u0117mis vadintos). Anot B.Servien\u0117s, patiekalai i\u0161 \u0161i\u0173 \u017euv\u0173 buvo patys skaniausi.<\/p>\n

Kvapes, kaip ir la\u0161i\u0161as, \u017evejai gaudydavo Skirvyt\u0117l\u0117s up\u0117je, statydami specialias u\u017etvaras. Rusni\u0161kiams delikatesas b\u016bdavo v\u0117g\u0117li\u0173 kepenys. \u0160\u012f pla\u0161takos dyd\u017eio organ\u0105 apibarstydavo druska, pavoliodavo miltuose ir apkepdavo.<\/p>\n

D\"senieji<\/a>ar v\u0117g\u0117l\u0119 piene virdavo. I\u0161 prad\u017ei\u0173 \u0161i\u0105 \u017euv\u012f piene mirkydavo, paskui apvoliodavo miltuose ir apkepdavo. Kitame puode i\u0161tirpindavo sviest\u0105, \u012fd\u0117davo smulkiai pjaustyto svog\u016bno ir \u012fpildavo u\u017evirinto vandens. Apkeptas v\u0117g\u0117les sud\u0117davo \u012f paruo\u0161t\u0105 aromating\u0105 nuovir\u0105 ir 20-30 minu\u010di\u0173 tro\u0161kindavo. V\u0117liau dar pagardindavo pienu arba grietin\u0117le, pakaitindavo ir patiekdavo su kar\u0161tomis bulv\u0117mis, gausiai apibarstytomis krapais.<\/p>\n

V\u0117g\u0117les ir d\u017eiovindavo. I\u0161 garsaus Rusn\u0117s \u017evejo Heinso Goberio prisiminim\u0173: \u201e…Atsimenu mamuk\u0117s paruo\u0161tas bulvikes ir d\u017eiovint\u0105 kvap\u0119 (v\u0117g\u0117l\u0119). Kai daug prigaudydava kvapi\u0173, ba\u010dkut\u0117se s\u016bdija ir laik\u0117 apie dvi nedielias. Po to \u012f kamin\u0105 bruka ir d\u017eiovina. Taip gal\u0117ja i\u0161b\u016bt iki nauj\u0173 kartofeliu. Gerdavom pa\u010di\u016bka, ale kai prar\u016bgdava, tai ir mums linksmuma b\u016bdava. Ale mamike tuoj atimdava ir neleisdava gert, \u0161i\u0161ion ne j\u016bs\u0173 zabova, sakydava…\u201c.<\/p>\n

N\u0117ges tro\u0161kindavo savo sultyse<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201eN\u0117g\u0117s – mano mel\u017eiama karvut\u0117, nei girdau, nei \u0161eriu, o gaudyt k\u0105 turiu\u201c, – sakydavo lietuvininkas \u017evejas E.Pr\u016bsas, n\u0117ges gaudydav\u0119s senuoju b\u016bdu – bu\u010diukais.<\/p>\n

B.Servien\u0117 apgailestavo, kad su \u0161viesios atminties Ervino era pasibaig\u0117 ir archaji\u0161kas \u0161i\u0173 \u017euv\u0173 gaudymas. Pernai Rusn\u0117je devynaki\u0173 nelabai buvo kur ir \u012fsigyti.<\/p>\n

N\u0117g\u0117 – nei sausumos gyv\u016bnas, nei \u017euvis, \u012f Pamario kra\u0161to vandenis atplaukianti ner\u0161ti. \u0160is sutv\u0117rimas ilgai i\u0161lieka gyvas tiek vandenyje, tiek ir sausumoje. Nuo senov\u0117s lietuvininkai  \u0161ias \u017euvis numarindavo specifiniu b\u016bdu. \u012e tam skirtus kubil\u0117lius jie suversdavo n\u0117ges, u\u017eberdavo druskos ir u\u017edengdavo. Pritraukusios druskos, n\u0117g\u0117s greitai \u017e\u016bdavo, o smarkiai raitydamosi pa\u010dios gleives nusivalydavo, ilgiau palaikytos ir \u012fsis\u016br\u0117davo.<\/p>\n

N\u0117g\u0117s yra labai riebios, neturi nei \u017evyn\u0173, nei a\u0161ak\u0173. J\u0173 m\u0117sa -kraujinga, tod\u0117l prie\u0161 ruo\u0161iant maistui reikia labai gerai ir gausiai i\u0161plauti vandenyje.<\/p>\n

Devynakes lietuvininkai da\u017enai valgydavo pusry\u010diams. \u0160ios \u017euvies gabal\u0117lius apvirdavo vandenyje keptuv\u0117je. Po kurio laiko skyst\u012f nupildavo, keptuv\u0119 i\u0161plaudavo, \u012fpildavo aliejaus ir ilgokai apkepdavo.<\/p>\n

Kartu su Ervinu gyvenusi Irena Le\u0161inskien\u0117 ruo\u0161davo n\u0117gi\u0173 konservus: jas tro\u0161kindavo savose sultyse. \u012e stiklain\u0117lio dugn\u0105 ji \u012fd\u0117davo kvapi\u0173j\u0173 pipir\u0173, lauro lapel\u012f ir piln\u0105 prigr\u016bsdavo \u017euvies gabaliuk\u0173. Vos prisuktais dangteliais stiklainiukus sustatydavo \u012f orkait\u0119 ir did\u0117jan\u010dia ugnele u\u017ekaitindavo iki 180 laipsni\u0173. Taip kepdavo apie pusantros valandos, kol \u017euvis pasidarydavo baltos spalvos. V\u0117liau dangtelius priver\u017edavo ir \u0161\u012f patiekal\u0105 valgydavo kaip delikates\u0105.\"senieji<\/a><\/p>\n

Anot B.Servien\u0117s, patys skaniausi pusry\u010diai Ervinui b\u016bdavo kafija ir juoda duona su pora gabal\u0117li\u0173 savose sultyse tro\u0161kintos n\u0117g\u0117s.<\/p>\n

Ant \u017earij\u0173 keptas n\u0117ges brangiai parduodavo<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u016bs\u0173 kra\u0161tas – durpingas, tod\u0117l n\u0117ges kepdavo ir ant durpi\u0173 briket\u0173. Nuvalytas devynakes i\u0161rikiuodavo skersai speciali\u0173 groteli\u0173 – rusto. J\u012f pastatydavo ant ugniakuro, kuriame kaitr\u0105 skleisdavo nudegusios durp\u0117s. \u0160iuo b\u016bdu skaniausiai \u017euvis paruo\u0161davo a.a. \u017evejas, tautosakos pateik\u0117jas Er\u010dius Jurgenaitis.<\/p>\n

Kiti n\u0117ges kepdavo ant med\u017eio \u017earij\u0173. Garsiojo H.Goberio an\u016bk\u0117 Renata Grici\u016bt\u0117 prisimena, kaip senelis kartu vesdavosi kepti n\u0117gi\u0173. Kieme i\u0161 plyt\u0173 buvo pastatyta tarsi dviej\u0173 auk\u0161t\u0173 krosnis. Ant \u017earij\u0173 kepant \u017euvis svarbiausias darbas b\u016bdavo nuolat jas vartyti, nes jeigu per daug apkepdavo, pasidarydavo neskani.<\/p>\n

Prikep\u0119s n\u0117gi\u0173, H.Goberis s\u0117sdavo \u012f brikel\u0119 ir patraukdavo \u012f \u017demai\u010di\u0173 Naumiest\u012f arba Til\u017e\u0119, kur ant \u017earij\u0173 skrudintas \u017euvis parduodavo ir u\u017edirbdavo nema\u017eus pinigus. \u201eU\u017e \u201e\u0161tuk\u0105\u201c po vien\u0105 mark\u0119\u201c, – yra sak\u0119s \u017evejas.<\/p>\n

N\u0117gi\u0173 skanaudavo svetain\u0117se<\/strong><\/p>\n

Klaip\u0117doje netgi buvo n\u0117gi\u0173 skanavimo svetain\u0117, kuri duris atverdavo \u0161i\u0173 \u017euv\u0173 gaudymo sezono metu. Savininkas lankytojus viliodavo alumi porteriu, kar\u0161tomis bandel\u0117mis ir ant \u017earij\u0173 keptomis n\u0117g\u0117mis.<\/p>\n

\u201eAt\u0117jai, pris\u0117dai prie stalelio, tau atne\u0161\u0117 tu\u0161\u010di\u0105 l\u0117k\u0161tel\u0119, alaus (jei negersi – liks), kar\u0161t\u0173 bandeli\u0173 ir kupin\u0105 l\u0117k\u0161t\u0119 ant \u017earij\u0173 kept\u0173 n\u0117gi\u0173. Kai nor\u0117si i\u0161eiti, paims l\u0117k\u0161tut\u0119, \u012f kuri\u0105 lankytojas sud\u0117jo suvalgyt\u0173 n\u0117gi\u0173 galveles. Galvas suskai\u010diuos, ir pagal tai klientas tur\u0117jo sumok\u0117ti\u201c, – pasakoja B.Servien\u0117, svajojanti, kad galb\u016bt kas nors sezonines \u017euv\u0173 skanavimo svetaines atidarys ir m\u016bs\u0173 kra\u0161te.<\/p>\n

 Projektas: „Kult\u016bros uostas: Tradicijos.”<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201eSr\u0117bk sriub\u0105, \u017euv\u012f dugne rasi\u201c, – sakydavo senieji Pamario kra\u0161to \u017evejai, \u017euvien\u0119 virdav\u0119 valtyje, supamoje Kur\u0161i\u0173 mari\u0173 bang\u0173. \u0160ios, dar tikr\u0105ja vadinamos \u017euvien\u0117s receptas labai paprastas: trikojyje u\u017evirintas mari\u0173 vanduo, penkios pirmos pagautos \u017euvys ir b\u016btinai – p\u016bg\u017elys, visam nuovirui suteikdav\u0119s skonio. Valgydami vyrai prisik\u0105sdavo moter\u0173 \u012f ki\u0161en\u0119 \u012fd\u0117tu \u010desnaku, kuris, tik\u0117ta, tur\u0117davo ir magi\u0161k\u0173 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[51],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15067","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","category-kultura-ir-svietimas"],"yoast_head":"\nSenieji Pamario kra\u0161to gyventojai valgydavo kvapes, devynakes, azegius, zarates - \u0160ilut\u0117s naujienos<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.silutesnaujienos.lt\/lt\/senieji-pamario-krasto-gyventojai-valgydavo-kvapes-devynakes-azegius-zarates\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"lt_LT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Senieji Pamario kra\u0161to gyventojai valgydavo kvapes, devynakes, azegius, zarates - \u0160ilut\u0117s naujienos\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u201eSr\u0117bk sriub\u0105, \u017euv\u012f dugne rasi\u201c, – sakydavo senieji Pamario kra\u0161to \u017evejai, \u017euvien\u0119 virdav\u0119 valtyje, supamoje Kur\u0161i\u0173 mari\u0173 bang\u0173. \u0160ios, dar tikr\u0105ja vadinamos \u017euvien\u0117s receptas labai paprastas: trikojyje u\u017evirintas mari\u0173 vanduo, penkios pirmos pagautos \u017euvys ir b\u016btinai – p\u016bg\u017elys, visam nuovirui suteikdav\u0119s skonio. 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